Hi, everyone, Rany here, your Asian cooking teacher from Korea.

Since 2017, I've taught Asian flavours to chefs and home cooks alike in South Africa. One question always pops up:

"Rany, what's your secret ingredient?"

Well, it's time to spill the soy... I mean, fish sauce! Top chefs have used it for years, boosting everything from carbonara to Vietnamese dipping sauce. Affordable, ever-present, and immortal in the pantry, it's the best-kept Asian culinary secret.

1. What is fish sauce?

A savory, clear amber-colored condiment made from fermented fish and salt, offering an immediate, show-stopping flavor with no extra effort. We've all had it in pad thai, spring rolls, pho... ring a bell? 

It's not confined to Thai or Vietnamese wonders; it's a globetrotter. Even Italy has its version, "colatura di alici," a nod to ancient Roman garum.

In my cooking school, I waited five years to source top-notch Vietnamese fish sauce before launching Thai classes in 2022. The same recipe tastes completely different depending on the fish sauce used. It's that important.

2. How is fish sauce made?

Picture this: fish, salt, and a dash of patience. The process is akin to wine-making, with nuances that make it an art form.

2-1. Ingredients

  • Fish: Mostly anchovies. But mackerel, scabbard fish, and other fish are also used. Freshness is key!

  • Salt: Sea salt draws out moisture and jumpstarts the transformation.

2.2. Process

  1. Salting: Fish meet sea salt in wooden barrels, preventing spoilage and setting the stage for fermentation. 

  2. Fermentation: Under the Vietnamese sun, the barrels age for months, sometimes years. Enzymes and bacteria waltz, turning fish into liquid gold. 

  3. Extraction: The first press, "nước cốt nhỉ," is the crème de la crème, rich and flavorful.

  4. Ageing & Pressing: The fish cake gets a second chance, producing subsequent extractions with varying intensities. 

  5. Filtration & Bottling: Pure liquid gets filtered, bottled, and ready for your kitchen. Some might add a dash of sugar or additional protein for that extra oomph.

2.3. Similarities to Winemaking

  • Sun-Kissed Ingredients: Both fish sauce and wine bask in the natural sunlight, letting unique bacteria and flavours blossom.

  • Wooden Vessels: Traditional methods utilize wooden barrels, infusing the final product with unique textures and aromas.

  • Patience is a Virtue: Both require months or years of fermentation to reach their full flavour potential.

  • Quality Gradations: Just like wine, the first press of fish sauce is considered the top-shelf choice.

  • Regional Variations: Different regions boast their unique takes on fish sauce, mirroring wine grapes' diverse terroirs.

3. How to understand the quality?

While most Asian countries make fish sauce, Vietnam is the world's largest producer and exporter. Quality control here is a science, employing the Nitrogen Number System (°N) to separate the wheat from the chaff.

In a nutshell, °N number measures % of the Total Nitrogen (TN) mainly from protein in the fish sauce before extraction. The °N number doesn't directly represent the percentage of protein in the final product. It indicates the total nitrogen content, including protein and non-protein nitrogen compounds. Let's understand that 18°N fish sauce means it had 18% protein before extraction, while 40°N had 40% protein. The higher the number, the better the quality. Only factories passing quality control are allowed to participate in the °N Number System.

3.1. Taste

Choose one with a well-balanced savouriness, supported by subtle sweetness, with a simple ingredient list. A pleasant aroma and a complex finish are key. Low-quality ones taste flat, like "fish-flavoured salty water."

3.2. °N number as a universal reference 

  • Below 20°N: Lighter in flavour, undergoes less fermentation, suitable for everyday cooking, seasoning, and bulk dipping sauce. Common in street food (12-15°N) and mainstream restaurants (18-20°N). 

    -> Analogy: Think of it like Johnnie Walker Red - versatile for everyday use, mixes well, and worry less about quality degradation.

  • Between 20°N - 40°N: Fermented longer, resulting in a balanced umami and more complexity. Ideal for various culinary applications. 25-30°N for households, 35N plus considered a delicacy, used in gourmet cooking.

    -> Analogy: Think of it like Johnnie Walker Black - upgraded for everyday use and home entertainment, does everything.

  • Above 40°N: Undergoes longer fermentation, often in wooden barrels, with meticulous quality control. Intensely savoury, rich in umami, and has a complex flavour profile. Rarely used for seasoning, reserved for exquisite dishes as a dipping sauce.

    -> Analogy: Think of it like Johnnie Walker Blue - too good to mix with anything, enjoy neat or on the rocks, same with fish sauce.

3.3. Price

Quality comes at a cost even, in Vietnam. Avoid very cheap options, as they may be of dubious quality. Below are some references:

  • [Vietnam] Red Boat's 40°N fish sauce (250ml) is sold at 2-3 dollars. That's equivalent to 0.5% to 1% of the monthly income for a blue-collar worker.

  • [USA] Red Boat's 40°N fish sauce (250ml) starts from 13 dollars. 

  • [South Africa] Blue Elephant Fish sauce from Woolworths (R 54.99 for 200ml) is a benchmark as Blue Elephant is recognized for its premium quality and authentic Thai products.

4. What about fish sauce with no °N number?

As mentioned, the °N system is exclusive to Vietnamese makers. For non-Vietnamese options, assess quality through ingredients, protein percentage, and price. Blue Elephant Fish Sauce from Woolworths has 12.5% protein, Squid brand (Thailand's top seller) has 12%. Avoid below this. Anything below this protein level, I wouldn't recommend.

Vietnamese fish sauce without the °N label might be akin to box wine quality. Limited manufacturer details suggest potential lower quality, similar to generic cheap box wines labelled "product of RSA." Some low-quality fish sauces have 12% protein due to additional protein for nitrogen improvement, compensating for lower-quality fish used.

5. Best fish sauce for cooking?

If you're an Asian food aficionado, I recommend having two types: 18 - 20°N for everyday use and seasoning (think Johnnie Walker Red), and 40°N for special occasions and dipping sauces (not heat-treated).

But if you're a fish sauce newbie, start with 18°N - 20°N and explore higher levels later.

For South African Foodies: Unfortunately, our options for quality fish sauce are really limited, driven by people's lack of understanding and price constraints (forget about getting N40 in SA). Stick to these three brands:

  • Umami fish sauce 18°N (made in Vietnam): We launched 18°N first as it's the flavour profile most students found pleasant to start with, while higher numbers were deemed "too pungent".

  • Blue Elephant fish sauce from Woolworths (made in Thailand)

  • Thai squid fish sauce from Asian markets (made in Thailand)

6. So, how do I cook with it?

Use fish sauce for everyday cooking instead of salt. Need some inspiration?

  • Steak: Brush fish sauce on your pre-cooked steak, add pepper and ditch the salt.

  • Broth: A splash in soups and stews adds umami depth. Think Vietnamese pho and Thai tom yum - they owe their magic to this secret weapon!

  • Dipping sauce: Whip up the fish sauce by mixing the fish sauce with lime juice, chillies, and sugar for Vietnamese spring rolls. Or, keep it simple with chopped chillies and garlic for a classic Thai nam pla.

  • Everyday seasoning: From marinades and salad dressings to stir-fries and scrambled eggs, a teaspoon or two works wonders. Be surprised how it adds complexity and depth!

  • Anchovy substitute: Running low on anchovies? Fish sauce comes to the rescue in braises, curries, compound butter, and even pasta sauces.

7. What if the food comes out fishy?

Fear not! Once cooked, it disappears, leaving behind pure savoury enchantment. Use it sparingly, and your dishes will thank you.

8. How to store it? 

Store in a dark, dry cupboard or pantry. It has too much salt to go off at room temperature.

9. How long does it last?

Thanks to salt and fermentation, fish sauce is practically immortal. Just like a bottle of Johnnie Walker, it's finished when you finish it.

10. Can I make fish sauce at home? 

NO! Leave it to the pro unless you're a hardcore food scientist with a spare year and no family & neighbours to complain about the smell of rotting fish. 

11. Is fish sauce healthier than salt?

Both salt and fish sauce seem to do the same job, but they're not equal contenders. Fish sauce delivers a deeper, richer "umami" punch that lets you cut back on salt, adding a sprinkle of protein and vitamins.

12. Is fish sauce halal?

The good news is that fish sauce is generally considered halal as both fish and salt are halal ingredients. Even lower-quality versions with added protein often use plant-based options like hydrolyzed vegetable protein, maintaining halal compliance. 

However, halal certification processes vary. While Vietnamese manufacturers primarily serve non-halal markets. For a certified version, use the Squid brand from Thailand.

Note for South African Foodies: I don't recommend other halal-certified fish sauces available in the market. They are box wine quality, earning the bad reputation of fish sauce.

13. What can I use alternatively?

Nothing quite matches fish sauce for that bang-on-the-dot impact. So strongly advise you to go the extra mile to source it.  But if you must avoid it, consider the below. 

  • Vegan Fish Sauce: I have tried so many home recipes but nothing came close to the vegan fish sauce from Vietnam made from beans. This is the best alternative while less salty and pungent. if used for seasoning, I'll balance it with a pinch of salt. 

  • Soy Sauce / Tamari: They offer a salty and savoury flavor, though it lacks distinct fishy undertones. It's a suitable alternative for stir-fries and marinades. 

So, there you have it! From its fishy origins to its culinary superpowers, fish sauce is a delicious and versatile ingredient waiting to be unleashed in your kitchen. Give it a try, be bold, and embrace the umami magic! 

Summary

  • What it is: Savory, amber liquid from fermented fish & salt. Adds depth, complexity, and savoury bomb to your dishes. Think Vietnamese pho, Thai dipping sauces, etc.

  • Why use it: Affordable, ever-present, and immortal in the pantry. It offers an immediate, show-stopping flavour with no extra effort. Just replace this with salt in everyday cooking.

  • Quality matters: Look for °N number (20 - 40°N best!) or high protein content (>12%). Brands like Umami Fish Sauce N18 (made in Vietnam, sold by Umami Food Studio), Blue Elephant (made in Thailand, sold by Woolworth), and Squid (made in Thailand, found in many Asian markets) are good starters.

  • Cooking uses: As salt alternative in everyday cooking. Steak marinade, broth booster, dipping sauce base, stir-fry secret weapon, anchovy substitute, and more! Use sparingly, it packs a punch.

  • Alternatives?: Vegan fish sauce (less salty), soy sauce (lacks fishy notes), or skip it altogether and season with salt (but you'll miss that extra oomph!).